00:51
 
August 17

Last weeks surf sesh. Didn't have a lot of waves this day... Was a day of the paddle... and duck diving. Seemed the biggest sets were always on my head... Typically. Was fun, and didnt have any expectations because of my fitness levels and the ocean was a bit rough. First wave I still have energy, second wave was after about 1.5 hours and the last was my last wave after roughly 2 hours.

Pop up exposes my level of fitness at the moment, I was almost unable to push myself up for Oreo. Grateful to be out in the water and for the lesson of embracing the suck never the less.

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