Hey crew. I wanted to share a breakthrough insight I’ve had recently. I’ve heard it said before in different ways, but I feel there’s been a switch flipped in my take off.

As best as I can explain…

Surfing doesn’t start when I stand up. It starts as I paddle for the wave. More so it starts the first hint of lift and energy from the wave. Now I’m looking where I want to go and adjusting the front to back and side to side angle of the board to surf the wave. Now as I stand up, I’ve gotta be smooth to not upset that planing and angle I’ve chosen to get into the wave. I’m still surfing the wave right through the process of getting to my feet. Now, hopefully my feet are in the right spot on the board, but even if not, I’m still surfing the wave as it seems most appropriate to do at that time as best as I can. Looking and feeling the wave and the board and getting into that athletic fighting/ sprinting stance to be ready to do the next appropriate thing.

Bit of an obvious one I guess, but really concentrating on this has completely transformed my take off.

Big love.