August 18

Caught some decent sized hurricane swell in Wrightsville Beach today on a brand new Machado Cado at 38L... big step down for me. Smallest volume I've ever ridden, caught a decent number of waves in a 3 hr session, definitely improving. Don't surf as often as I would like due to lack of waves in myrtle beach area most times, but I've been surf skating the local bowl at least 10-15 mins a day between dropping my kids off at school and being at work myself. The lessons and program and the surf skating tutorials are helping make me that small % better every time I go out. For sure need to work on my paddle endurance and low back endurance though... 3 hrs is gonna have my old man bones aching tomorrow. Today was a good day... Passing on the stoke... thanks for all that you guys do if it can help me it can help anyone. Yeeewwwwww!

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