Jerry

11 Sep 02:30

One more thought, I have been taught that angling a short board wipes off speed and sends you too far out on the shoulder. I now realize I took this way too rigidly by applying this to all types of days and clearly explains why I go from the person with the highest wave count one day to the lowest on more critical days. Thanks again!!

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11 Sep 01:50

Wow, thx everyone for your excellent feedback and tips (Michiel the video was very helpful.). Sorry about my confusing term “boxy” but yes I meant shabby, dumpy, no shoulder coming in a straight line not A frame rights and lefts. I also listened to the podcast on step waves in OMBE library which was also helpful. So…what was consistent in all your feedback and the videos was setting the rail/angling and it is absolutely my issue after reviewing all this. My home break usually allows a pretty straight takeoff with an open face but it is that 25% of the time when things get slabby that I struggle and now I clearly understand why. I’ve gone from dreading those days to being excited for the next stretch so I can apply these methods. Thank you again!!!

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No. But that is definitely something I have to start doing

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10 Sep 02:32

Thanks graham but it’s actually the opposite. I surf a well defined reef break and on normal days I surf in the top 30% of a fairly competitive spot. But when things box off and get steep i struggle. I would love to see a tutorial on how to manage this type of wave including looking at pro footage. If I do get a wave I surf it fine, it’s the positioning, takeoff, angling that I can seem to get a grasp of in these conditions

Thanks to you both. I was out the last two days and already made some progress based on your feedback and advice. As the swells begin to pick up here in socal in the fall (and provide more rights in most of my spots) I hope to be ready. If not, I will send some video—thanks again. New to OMBE and loving it!!

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Thank you Graham. It’s about catching and pop up. When I catch the wave I actually surf it ok. It’s the idea of the wave breaking behind me that messes me up despite trying to look down the line when paddling and popping. I’m a 5 out of 10 front side surfer and 1-2 on backhand. How can I mentally or drill wise get past this anxiety. I don’t see any specific videos or drills to address this in the program but I may not have found it yet