Hi Everyone
I'm back from Bali. What can I say - I loved it, hated it, wanted to come home, never wanted to leave.
It was unreal, except for a bout of Bali Belly.
Didn't do a huge amount of surfing. It was too big for me, but spectacular to watch.
I did find the courage to go out into what was probably the biggest surf I have ever been out it.
How big is that? I don't know. Big enough that when it looked like a wave was going to break on top
of me, I didn't just sh_t myself, I began to pray in earnest to the man upstairs.
Surfed mostly at Dreamland, which at high tide developed a really wicked dumper right on the sand.
This made it scarier getting out of the water than getting in.
It wasn't a complete disaster I decided to pick up some of these bigger waves after they broke, some
reformed enough for me to ride a bit of the face so I chalk that up as a win.