Hey Graham the surf has been crappy here but I went out Wednesday afternoon as a nor’easter turned the little bit of swell into large chop. I hired a board because mine is wrapped up ready to go to Bali tomorrow. I was alone in the surf and I gave myself the heeby jeebies because some one a few hours up the coast lost their leg this week
Commented on I’ve missed you guys. It’s been an in...
28 Jul 23:19
Happy Birthday Maria, I was beginning to think you might have fallen off the planet
I am in Bali Caught my first wave here this afternoon.
Glad you are back and you look absolutely great on that wave