Hi !
After finally moving closed to the ocean, I progressed a lot since then but I feel like I struggled to fix some of my mistakes and it leads to a lot of frustration 😅
I struggled to be right at the peak, often too much inside or to much backward.. When I'm well placed, often I take off to late and I'm behind the section, I never really surfed down the line and this is really frustrating 🥲
I tried the Oreo biscuit technics and it worked well on couple waves but sometimes I do it too early
If you have some tips 🙏🏼
Maybe my board is too demanding for my low intermediate level, it's a 6'7 and I'm 6'4 and 83 kilos what's your thoughts ?
Replied on Hi ! After finally moving closed to ...
Apr 13 at 06:24 AM
Thanks you Graham 🙏🏼
Unfortunately I didn't have any for now but maybe in the futur.
Yeah it's hard especially with the conditions at my local break, a lot of close out and moving a lot 😅
I have a 9'0 and I love it, usually catch a lot of waves with it but I can't go out the back when it's over 6 feet.. duck diving change my life haha but the other surfers in the lineup have longer boards or short but foamies
I'll try to test some mid length maybe