A great listen at the right time. Am now too close to 60 and struggling with many of the things described. Competing with young faster surfers and therefore finding myself out of the correct position to catch the wave. This creates stress paddling, missing waves which then increases the stress and so on… unfortunately the head can then get in the way of an otherwise, ‘fit’ surfer. I’m definitely going to try to surf smarter.
Commented on Sometimes it's the simplest or smalle...
21 Feb 02:55
Good work Graham. Once you have practiced more , it’s trying to forget and just let it happen naturally , so you don’t overthink it!