Looks like you are staying close to the pocket well and using the face!
The coffee cup arms could be a good place as it’s sometimes it’s behind you- but some nice looking turns!
Where’s this wave? 🙂
Vancouver, Canada
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18 Jan 11:45
That sounds rough.
Impressed you are sticking to it! My goal is to still surf and learn into my 60s, so it’s inspiring to see you push through.
But still, that’s a lot of injuries and pain- hope it give you a break soon!