Hi all! Hope you are doing well. I was lucky enough to get some footage on my last surf trip. Any feedback or comments would be super appreciated. In particular I find it pretty ticky to generate speed on my backside. Thanks in advance ☺️
Hi all! Hope you are doing well. I was lucky enough to get some footage on my last surf trip. Any feedback or comments would be super appreciated. In particular I find it pretty ticky to generate speed on my backside. Thanks in advance ☺️
One thing to consider is to simply wait a whole lot longer before turning to paddle. (You could easily get into this wave with just one or max two stokes). That would give you more time to read the wave. Which would help your positioning and hence also your speed generation.
This wave is pretty much perfect and it doesn't break so quickly so you het away with it. But if this was a short beach break you can easily paddle yourself out of position this way so it's good to build the right habit early.
You've got a good take off, although perhaps you could have been a few board lengths back to your left to get into the wave a little earlier.
But I think your issue with speed generation is that you're not using the whole of the wave.
If you look at the screenshot, you want to go up to the lip, but you're looking down at the nose and your coffee cup arm is pointing backwards which is telling your board to slow down as your weight goes onto the back foot.
Push the coffee cup forward to stack on your front foot, then look at the lip and lift the cup there so you can tap into the wave's speed 👍
Yeah, you’re paddling way too early. I would say about 11-12 strokes too early. Looks like a really fun wave!