Hey guys!! Hope you are well. I'm surfing smaller boards now, and I feel that sometimes I get lost with the perfect timing to catch the green wave. Sometimes I feel more confident to catch it when it's breaking a bit than when it's not. It's probably just a matter of getting used to it. I would like to know some tips on how I can anticipate and be sure that it won't be a hollow/ empty wave or "eat me" by catching it too late. Thank you so much!!!
Hi Jazmin, what I do is sit at the "bus stop" of the wave and watch the wave as it breaks to see how it behaves. Then I know in my head how much of a glide I will be able to have before I have to pop up. For steeper waves I tend to angle the take off too but as you know yourself, waves behave so differently at different tides and different locations.
Another thing I find is if I glide into a wave like that on a short board I can connect with the wave a see how it feels. Ultimately the Oreo biscuit technique, looking where you are going and watching the bottom of the wave are things that I try and do instinctively.
Hope that helps
Hey Jazmin
I agree with Cian, he is on the money there.
Using the OMBE ‘treasure map’ theory is also helpful. It’s not perfect because as Cian said waves behave differently at different times - bigger sets coming through, low to high tide - but as a general rule the treasure map is a good one.
Might I suggest posting this in the community app as there is a lot more engagement on there than in this community section.