Project: Speed in Surfing

Introduction

Speed is the lifeblood of surfing. It allows surfers to navigate the wave’s face, perform maneuvers, and harness the wave’s energy to keep their ride alive. However, speed in surfing isn’t simply about going fast; it’s about understanding when and how to generate speed, how to maintain it, and how to avoid common pitfalls that can slow you down.

Drawing analogies from sprinting, we can break down the process of speed in surfing into phases that include acceleration, maintaining speed, and controlling movement across the wave face. Let’s dive into the mechanics of speed in surfing and explore the interplay between gravity, wave energy, and body movement.

Phase 1: Acceleration at Takeoff

Just as a sprinter launches off the starting blocks with a burst of acceleration, a surfer’s initial takeoff is all about harnessing gravity to propel down the wave. This initial drop provides a burst of speed, giving the surfer momentum to work with.

• Gravity’s Role: Gravity accelerates the surfer down the face of the wave. This force is strongest during takeoff, where it pulls the surfer downward, giving them their first taste of speed.
• Compression: At this stage, surfers should stay low, compressing their body to stabilize and control this acceleration. This low posture maximizes stability and uses the downward pull of gravity to gain momentum.

Coaching Point: “Compress to accelerate.” Emphasize the importance of staying low to harness the wave’s downward energy during takeoff. This is your burst phase, similar to a sprinter pushing out of the blocks.

Phase 2: Transitioning to Speed

Once the surfer is moving along the face of the wave, the objective shifts from acceleration to maintaining speed. This phase is about transitioning from a low, compressed stance to a taller, more extended posture that lightens the load on the board.

• Standing Taller: Just as a sprinter stands upright to maintain a sustainable stride, a surfer should extend after takeoff. This reduces drag, allowing for smooth, horizontal movement across the wave.
• Avoiding the Sinking Effect: Staying low too long causes the surfer to “sink,” or feel heavy on the board. This effect drags the surfer toward the wave’s base, causing them to lose speed. By extending, they reduce the downward force of gravity and remain light on the board.

Coaching Point: “Extend to sustain.” After the initial drop, encourage surfers to stand taller to avoid dragging down. This keeps them agile, reduces resistance, and allows them to flow with the wave’s forward energy.

Phase 3: Timing with the Wave’s Energy

To sustain speed, surfers need to move up and down the wave face in rhythm with the wave’s natural energy. This phase involves coordinating compression and extension to maintain a dynamic, flowing movement.

• Wave’s Orbital Motion: Water moves in a circular, or orbital, motion as it creates the wave, similar to a sine wave with an “even up” and “even down.” Surfing in harmony with this orbital motion is like moving in a rolling pattern, where you create speed through rhythmic compression and extension.
• Moving Up the Wave for Speed: After the drop, surfers need to return to the top of the wave to build potential energy. This motion allows them to “reset” their speed, as descending from a higher position on the wave face regenerates forward momentum.

Coaching Point: “Ride with rhythm.” Encourage surfers to think of their movements as a dance with the wave’s natural motion, going up and down to continually harness the wave’s energy and sustain speed.

Phase 4: Counteracting Gravity with Extension

Gravity, while useful for initial acceleration, is a force that surfers need to counteract to avoid losing speed. Extension becomes a powerful tool to lift the surfer above gravity’s pull, allowing them to stay high on the wave face.

• Upward Lift: Just as a sprinter lifts with each stride to counteract gravity, a surfer uses extension as an upward force to keep from sinking. By extending in sync with the wave’s upward draw, surfers align with the wave’s natural energy to stay above gravity’s slowing effect.
• Using the Rail for Lift: When surfers press down on their toe edge and engage the rail, they tap into the wave’s buoyancy. This buoyancy allows the board to “pop” back up, lifting them and maintaining speed. Timed with an upward extension, this technique helps surfers stay in control, light, and high on the wave face.

Coaching Point: “Extend with the wave’s lift.” By timing extensions with the wave’s upward pull, surfers counteract gravity, maintaining a smooth, fast ride.

Phase 5: The Balance Between Acceleration and Maintaining Speed

A crucial concept in surfing is distinguishing between acceleration and speed. Many surfers mistake initial acceleration for sustainable speed, but they’re two distinct phases. Acceleration is the burst of speed you get when gravity pulls you down the wave face, while maintaining speed is about managing movement across the wave.

• Controlled Extension vs. Compression: Compression should be minimal after takeoff to avoid sinking. Instead, the focus shifts to controlled extensions that maintain a steady flow across the wave face. This dynamic balance keeps you moving forward without losing height or momentum.
• Avoiding Over-Compression: Excessive compression can work against you by enhancing gravity’s pull, which will drag you lower on the wave. Remember, the wave’s energy gives you the forward motion, so the goal is to maintain that speed, not over-compress.

Coaching Point: “Use the wave’s energy, don’t force it.” Instead of over-compressing, focus on subtle movements that align with the wave’s energy. This keeps your ride fluid and efficient, letting the wave power your speed.

Key Insights Summary

1\. Harness Gravity Initially, Then Counteract It: Use gravity for acceleration on takeoff but shift to counteracting it by extending and moving high on the wave.
2\. Extend to Stay Light and Fluid: Transitioning from compression to extension reduces drag, allowing you to sustain speed without sinking.
3\. Ride with the Wave’s Rhythm: Embrace the wave’s orbital motion by moving up and down in a rolling flow, syncing with the wave’s natural energy.
4\. Precision in Compression and Extension: Minimal compression after takeoff and timed extension maintain a controlled, fast, and balanced ride.
5\. The Wave’s Lift Is Your Ally: Use the wave’s upward pull to counteract gravity, keeping your ride smooth, light, and fast.

Conclusion

Speed in surfing is a dynamic interplay of forces, timing, and rhythm. By understanding how to harness gravity for acceleration, extend to counteract it, and align with the wave’s orbital energy, surfers can unlock a faster, more controlled, and exhilarating ride. This journey isn’t about brute force or pushing for speed; it’s about syncing with the wave’s natural energy, moving with fluid precision, and knowing when to harness and when to release.