HEALED, but SO FRUSTRATED!

Picture is not me, but showing it's possible with those lumpy waves!

The good news is that after almost completely stopping surfing from August 2023 to May 2024, I healed my hip and ankle, thanks to great advice from Adam Knox to work with Michael Rintalla. An X-ray and MRI confirmed a bad situation on my right (front) leg hip labrum. With tons of diligent DNS work and some PT, my hip is good. Then, I had ankle surgery to "remove loose bodies" floating around my ankle joint. So, physically, I think I'm better than ever, but...   

I just started surfing a bit, and I'm so frustrated!

My hip is great, but I can't take off. I'm just not committed to catching the waves.

Is there any instructional material here on surfing choppy waves from multiple swells?

Here's the Surfline swells:

Overhead to well overhead, 6-8ft, FAIR

Swells: 5.9ft, 11s, NW, 326º; 0.6ft, 7s, NE, 44º; 3.9ft, 7s, E, 94º

I even tried riding a step up, 7'2, but that was not enough.

I'm completely humiliated!

And here's a video of what it looked like: https://youtu.be/b5r9nYT1JmQ